For years, Trinidad was a dusty whistle-stop on the road to Raton Pass and New Mexico, a Victorian coal-mining town established in the late nineteenth century, just a stone’s throw from the site of the Ludlow Massacre and, later, the remnants of the Drop City artist commune. A stint as the Sex Change Capital of the World kept Trinidad in the news for a couple of decades, and now the marijuana industry is adding life to the local economy.
But if Rodney Wood has his way, art cars will be Trinidad’s biggest claim to fame, revving up the town's designation as an official Colorado Creative District.
Wood is the founder and director of ArtoCade, an annual art-car celebration and parade that's been rolling through Trinidad every September since 2013. During its short history, the wacky festival has grown into a promising and popular attraction; Wood notes that ArtoCade is already outdrawing similar events in San Francisco and Seattle, if not the top of the heap: the fabled Houston Art Car Parade, which attracts up to 300,000 spectators.
But he hopes to beat Houston with a year-round sideshow. After a first try stalled, Wood recently opened the doors to the Art Cartopia Museum, a volunteer-run garage where ArtoCade’s most legendary art cars — "Albert Canstein," "EyeVan," "Boney Whipman" and others — persuade travelers along the I-25 corridor to stop and visit for a while.
Wood’s pitch, however hucksterish, is sincere: “The museum is a publicity stunt to get people to Trinidad to see something out of the ordinary,” he explains. “We’re creating a real roadside attraction. We even have a giant gorilla blowup holding a car.”
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"Phoenix," by Charlie and Gail Holthausen, trolls the streets of Trinidad during a recent ArtoCade.
Courtesy of Rodney Wood
Art cars are whatever you want them to be, says Wood: “If you can’t drive it, it’s a float. End of rules.” As long as it’s mobile and embellished, it’s an art car.
The concept gained traction in the hippie era (think psychedelic vans, Janis Joplin’s famous painted Porsche and, eventually, commissioned BMW Art Cars) but has grown in scope and sophistication since then. “The seeds were planted in both San Francisco and Houston at a similar time,” Wood notes.
It was a “drive your art” movement from the start. “Success had nothing to do with sales of art," he adds. "You live your art, you don’t hang it on a gallery wall. Art cars became a free, open, blank canvas, with no rules.”
Many modern art cars utilize recycled materials: toys, CDs, trampolines, bottle caps, things that require minor budgeting and a lot of imagination. “It’s not outsider art, but a lot of these people would qualify,” Wood says. “Anybody can make an art car.”
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"Bohemian Rhapsody," made by high school students and Rebecca Bass in Houston.
Photo by Joe Kusumoto, courtesy of Rodney Wood
“To call him a noted artist is an understatement,” Wood says of Hazell. “He started with a Wild West theme, and then made a stagecoach jet with a giant skeleton riding it!” Boney took a first-place ribbon in Houston in 2017, but calls Trinidad home the rest of the time.
![](https://media2.westword.com/den/imager/u/blog/11221265/art-cartopia-boney.jpg?cb=1718324337)
"Boney Whipman," by Andy Hazell from Wales, guards the entrance to Art Cartopia.
Courtesy of Rodney Wood
The other one is in Douglas, Arizona, and is owned by art-car visionary Harodd Blank, son of filmmaker Les Blank and the guiding light behind the Bay Area’s Art Car Fest and Burning Man’s art-car theme camp. “His museum is amazing, but it’s never open — and it’s on the way to nowhere,” Wood points out.
![](https://media2.westword.com/den/imager/u/blog/11221268/artcartopia-front-entrance-eyevan-boney.jpg?cb=1718324337)
Art Cartopia's exterior with "EyeVan" and "Boney Whipman," plus a VW parts sculpture by Trinidadian artist Hans Droog.
Courtesy of Rodney Wood
Steer over to Art Cartopia at 2702 Freedom Road in Trinidad (I-25, Exit 15). Winter hours are 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, and admission is free. Learn more on Facebook; a full website is currently under construction.
This year’s ArtoCade parade, with 115-plus entries from more than fifteen states, as well as an Art Lights and Fire Show and the CarDango dance party, is set for September 13 and 14 in Trinidad. Watch for updates at artocade.com.