Best Seafood Restaurant for You and Ten of Your Closest Friends 2005 | Go Fish Grille | Best of Denver® | Best Restaurants, Bars, Clubs, Music and Stores in Denver | Westword
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Best Seafood Restaurant for You and Ten of Your Closest Friends

Go Fish Grille

Larry Herz and his crew at Go Fish Grille have created a seafood restaurant with zero pretension but a worthy goal: to fill its coolers and freezers with the finest product that can be wrangled out of suppliers who still think of Denver as a B-grade market (at best). We wouldn't suggest this as a romantic destination -- too many wooden fish sculptures and bright colors for that. And it's probably not the spot to close a million-dollar business deal -- unless the signatories have some sort of weird Finding Nemo fetish. But it's a place to go with friends, lots of friends, because the one-from-column-A, two-from-column-B, Tom Colicchio-style choose-your-own-adventure menu is deep enough to please even the pickiest, fish-phobic of your friends. For those nights when you're looking for a fun place to greet and eat, we guarantee that Go Fish Grille is quite a catch.

We know that Zengo is not so much a seafood restaurant as a restaurant that happens to serve seafood in addition to a lot of other things. But that doesn't matter. When you're after great fish, nobody handles the creatures of the briny deep quite like this kitchen -- and with a Latino-Asian twist, at that. Whether you order an antojito of tuna cut into perfect slabs and served with a ponzu sauce, a crisp and bitingly fresh ceviche, an entree of whole grouper dusted in ancho chile powder or the best piece of black cod you've ever tasted, we guarantee that your meal will go swimmingly at Zengo.


We know that Zengo is not so much a seafood restaurant as a restaurant that happens to serve seafood in addition to a lot of other things. But that doesn't matter. When you're after great fish, nobody handles the creatures of the briny deep quite like this kitchen -- and with a Latino-Asian twist, at that. Whether you order an antojito of tuna cut into perfect slabs and served with a ponzu sauce, a crisp and bitingly fresh ceviche, an entree of whole grouper dusted in ancho chile powder or the best piece of black cod you've ever tasted, we guarantee that your meal will go swimmingly at Zengo.

Somethin' Else, Sean Kelly's neighborhood tapas joint, takes the fancified crustacean from the rarefied level of special occasions and anniversaries and returns it to everyday eating, where it belongs. Here the lobster tail is served without fanfare alongside all the other great small plates -- but at fifteen bucks, this perfectly prepared lobster is a big deal.


Somethin' Else, Sean Kelly's neighborhood tapas joint, takes the fancified crustacean from the rarefied level of special occasions and anniversaries and returns it to everyday eating, where it belongs. Here the lobster tail is served without fanfare alongside all the other great small plates -- but at fifteen bucks, this perfectly prepared lobster is a big deal.

Mac-and-cheese may be the best survivor of the comfort-food trend that swept the food world a few years ago, then mercifully departed. And we'd like to keep Mizuna's mac-and-cheese around for a long, long time. Butter-soft lobster-claw meat, perfectly poached, comes mounted on pasta robed in smooth mascarpone cheese that's about as far from out-of-the-box-Kraft as you can get. Baby, it doesn't get any better than this.

Joni Schrantz
Mac-and-cheese may be the best survivor of the comfort-food trend that swept the food world a few years ago, then mercifully departed. And we'd like to keep Mizuna's mac-and-cheese around for a long, long time. Butter-soft lobster-claw meat, perfectly poached, comes mounted on pasta robed in smooth mascarpone cheese that's about as far from out-of-the-box-Kraft as you can get. Baby, it doesn't get any better than this.

The crab cakes at Go Fish Grille are big enough to be a meal. A very delicious meal. They come to the table straight out of the pan, decadently stuffed with quality back-fin crabmeat that's been left in fat chunks rather than overworked into shreds, mixed lightly with breadcrumbs and not at all with bell peppers or onions or celery (heaven forbid), so the taste of good crab is all you get in every bite. Unless, of course, you order the cakes with one of the dozen-plus sauces listed on the menu, which offer crab fanatics the chance to try a different flavor every night until they've exhausted all pairing options and have to start over.


The crab cakes at Go Fish Grille are big enough to be a meal. A very delicious meal. They come to the table straight out of the pan, decadently stuffed with quality back-fin crabmeat that's been left in fat chunks rather than overworked into shreds, mixed lightly with breadcrumbs and not at all with bell peppers or onions or celery (heaven forbid), so the taste of good crab is all you get in every bite. Unless, of course, you order the cakes with one of the dozen-plus sauces listed on the menu, which offer crab fanatics the chance to try a different flavor every night until they've exhausted all pairing options and have to start over.

In its grasping quest toward food-town respectability, Denver is now home to several restaurants that have gone so far above and beyond the call, they're not just the best of their category here, but can compete with restaurants across the country. Exhibit A: Sushi Den. There's no other sushi restaurant in the Mile High City -- and very few in the continental 48 -- that can match a place that gets orders flown in daily from the fish markets of Japan, serving slices and hand rolls of fish that, in some cases, were swimming less than 24 hours before they arrived in Denver. Thanks to these deliveries, Sushi Den runs daily sets of specials featuring unusual critters (needlefish, baby tuna) rarely seen on other sushi menus, and even the plainest rolls are made from superior ingredients and by sushi chefs who've learned well the lesson that the chef is merely a mode of transport between coolers and customer. This is a kitchen operating without ego -- which is amazing, because if anyone has bragging rights to its product, it's Sushi Den.


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