There's now a trio of Jax Fish Houses — and a fourth opening soon in Glendale — but the newly remodeled LoDo location is the front-runner stunner. The nautically funky interior showcases whale-tail cutouts suspended from the ceiling, white subway tile, a gorgeous marble-finished bar that stretches from one end to the other, and an interactive raw bar, from which fresh oysters, clams, shrimp, mussels and crab legs are dispensed by a crew of seaworthy captains who can shuck, peel, scrub and debeard at high sailboat speeds. And the kitchen still sails just as smoothly as before, turning out unassailable dishes like sea scallops paired with fried pig's ears; miso-grilled salmon bolstered by smoked soba noodles; and Dungeness crab clusters bobbing in piquant panang curry.