Chicago Style Beef & Dogs

Luanne and Joe Margotte opened this joint well over a decade ago with the idea of transplanting a few hundred square feet of Chicago in the fertile soil of metro Denver. The game on the radio is the Cubs or the Bears; at the counter is a stash of Fannie May candies, boxes of Salerno butter cookies, signs for Gonnella bread (as vital to Chicago eaters as Amoroso rolls are to Philadelphians). The place is less a restaurant than a cramped, cluttered, plastic-wrapped museum of Chicago paraphernalia.