When the dining guide served up its first Colorado edition last year, five spots were awarded one star — all of which feature tasting-menu concepts that come with a high price tag. That move led many — including me — to believe that à la carte concepts like Alma were unlikely to be in the star mix.
But all of that changed on September 9, when Michelin announced its 2024 additions. While the number of restaurants earning new accolades was disappointingly low (just four), the star for Alma was a happy surprise.
"When it comes to accolades, it doesn't get higher than Michelin," Johnny says. "From the moment that we opened Alma and when we were going through the lawsuit [with My Neighbor Félix], we've had so much support from not only guests, but our employees and other restaurants. When the announcement happened, everyone was out there with a lot of support, a lot of love. It's such a pat on the back and such a blessing to get it."
The Curiels say that chasing a star wasn't a priority when they opened Alma last year (their previous employment at My Neighbor Félix and a non-compete agreement inspired the lawsuit), so they opted to stick with an à la carte menu — even at the restaurant's intimate chef's counter. "For us and for me, it was important to be able to share our story with the 90 percent of people who go out to dine rather than the 10 percent that can afford a tasting menu," Johnny notes.
But in the hours following the big Michelin news, Johnny says there was one question he was asked over and over...
![a taco](https://media2.westword.com/den/imager/u/blog/21921088/alma_taco.png?cb=1726077549)
The taco de suadero with twelve-hour confit Colorado brisket is one of two $8 tacos on Alma's current menu.
Shawn Campbell
Will Alma Fonda Fina raise its prices now that it has a star?
"No," Johnny says. "We're going to keep our feet on the ground. We do what we do, and we're gonna keep doing it. If we change who we are, I'm breaking the promise I made to the team when I told them that we're not going after accolades. I wanted to open a restaurant where I can share my story. Changing our format or our pricing would be not staying true to our vision.""That's who we are, and that's what got us here," Kasie adds.
Alma Fonda Fina's menu is intentionally concise, with a focus on highlighting Johnny's Mexican heritage. Prices currently range from $8 for a taco with heritage pork carnitas and mole verde to the $49 Black Angus ribeye. The à la carte format, Johnny says, is like a "build-your-own tasting menu," and the staff is happy to help guide guests with recommendations.
The restaurant will also keep its weekday happy hour, which is available from 2 to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. That menu is "Johnny's playground," Kasie says. It's ever-evolving and functions as a testing ground for new menu ideas. Guests can order from the regular menu during happy hour as well.
Will reservations be harder to get?
"There's been a big boost," Kasie says. Alma's reservations open up sixty days out, and when a new day opened at midnight following the Michelin news, it was full by that morning.Alma is a small restaurant and was already a hot ticket so, yes, it's still going to require some planning if you want to sit at the chef's counter at 7 p.m. on a Friday. But its patio is first come, first served, Casie notes.
Weekday afternoons are also a good bet for getting in.
Coming soon: Mezcaleria Alma
The Curiels opened Alma Fonda Fina in December 2023, added Cozobi Fonda Fina in Boulder in July, and now they're going for three new concepts in less than a year with the upcoming Mezcaleria Alma, in the space next door to Alma in LoHi.Johnny and beverage director Jen Mattioni are currently working on the cocktail menu for the mezcaleria, which will also have its own food menu inspired by Mexico City. While Alma and Cozobi are rooted in traditional Mexican ingredients, Mexico City "is like a funnel of the world," Johnny says, which means that he and his chefs can be more playful with elements from other global cuisines. The team is aiming for a late-October debut.
"It's just been a whirlwind," Johnny says of the Michelin experience so far. "I'm just so grateful for the team we have. Now we enjoy the moment and continue to build a great team. We'll just keep going."
Alma Fonda Fina is located at 2556 15th Street and is open from 2 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. For more information, visit almalohidenver.com.