The Best Denver Bites Food Editor Molly Martin Had in September 2024 | Westword
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The Best Bites We Had in September

From crunchy fried chicken wings to diner eats and a foie gras lollipop.
MAKfam's wings.
MAKfam's wings. Molly Martin
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There's a good reason that the wings from MAKfam won the People's Choice award for Best Wings at the 2024 edition of Ace Eat Serve's Wings & Whiskey event: They're a crowd-pleaser. The Baker eatery that unapologetically uses MSG and earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand distinction this year is a lively spot that doesn't take reservations; I arrived with a friend around 5 p.m. on a Friday and snagged two bar seats, but the place was soon totally packed.

We ordered several items to share — which is the best way to dine here — but it was the wings that had even the person sitting next to me hungering for a bite. "Are those as good as they look?" he inquired.

"Better," I told him. Fried to perfection, the batter is crisp and the meat underneath is tender, juicy and falls easily from the bone while maintaining just enough bite. The best part, though, is the pile of málà seasoning and scallions on top, which adds freshness and plenty of numbing heat from Sichuan peppercorns. Get them alongside the stir-fried greens of the day.

Another must-try on the menu are the málà mozzarella sticks, but you have to show up during happy hour from 2 to 5 p.m. to get a taste of those.
click to enlarge frito pie and a hot dog topped with cole slaw
The Atlanta Slaw Dog and Frito Pie at Steve's.
Molly Martin
Steve's Snappin Dogs is closing on October 19 after two decades on East Colfax Avenue, so a hot dog stop was in order last weekend. On the Saturday after we broke the news, Steve himself was working the cash register and the room, as a long line of fans snaked in to place orders. "Yesterday was the busiest Friday we've had in years," he told me with a big smile.

I went with the Alabama Slaw Dog, a Frito pie and some Steve's Snappin' Ale, but you really can't go wrong with any of the dogs — or burgers — here. Get a taste while you can. Steve's Snappin' Dogs at DIA will remain open, but only for the next 18 to 24 months.
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A chicken-fried spread at Pete's.
Molly Martin
click to enlarge chile rellenos and eggs
Chile rellenos and eggs taste even better at 3 a.m.
Molly Martin
I snapped the two photos above less than a week apart, after Pete's Kitchen came through for me in the way only an old-school diner can. The first visit was the morning after this year's Michelin ceremony. I'd ended up at an after-party, woke up with a flash tattoo of a chef's knife (no regrets) and desperately needed fuel for the day. Pete's provided just that in the form of chicken-fried chicken with extra crispy hash browns and a side of green chile.

That weekend, when hunger struck at 3 a.m., I knew the options for late-night eats were limited. But Pete's is still 24/7 from Friday to Sunday, so I grabbed a booth, a hot chocolate and a plate of chile rellenos and eggs, grateful for this Colfax staple.
click to enlarge foie gras lollipop covered in white glaze
A foie gras "lolipop" from Stone Cellar Bistro.
Molly Martin
While cheap, dependable diner eats will always be a favorite, I also appreciate a good upscale experience. Last month, I was once again reminded why Stone Cellar Bistro in Arvada is so special. The first time I visited, the entire meal — which included a memorable fois gras preparation and the hot honey fried chicken that's become a staple — impressed from start to finish.

The fried chicken on this visit was as tasty as I'd remembered, and chef/owners Brandon Kerr and Jordan Alley continue to turn out top-tier farm-to-table fare. But again, it was the fun take on foie that really stuck with me. This time, it came as a "lollipop" covered in coconut-yuzu glace and served with strawberries and basil. I'd take this over a cake pop any day.

Also of note: You can catch Kerr on the current season of Hell's Kitchen.
click to enlarge Chicken tender sub
You can make a pretty close Pub Sub dupe at home.
Molly Martin
I did some good home cooking in September, too. After visiting Nashville for the day with Odie B's owner Cliff Blauvelt so he could try a Publix chicken tender sub (IYKYK) he ran a special that was a hit last month. There is a chance Odie B's might bring it back in the future; in the meantime, I was able to create a solid dupe at home using Jersey Mike's bread (which did the trick but isn't quite right) and tenders from Cluck on South Broadway. Another key component: Boar's Head Kosher Dill chips, which I've only been able to find at the Capitol Hill King Soopers (1155 East Ninth Avenue).

If any Pub Sub fans attempt their own at-home version, please send me the results!
click to enlarge green chile in a pot
'Tis the season to make green chile at home.
Molly Martin
We've done a lot of green chile coverage this year, from our updated list of the top spots to eat it in town to sharing the story behind Pueblo's Mosco chiles. I also wrote about going to Nick's Garden Center in Aurora to re-up my supply of fresh roasted chiles for home, and finding a stellar version of green chile (the dish) at its weekend-only cafe.

Of course, I took my haul home and immediately cooked up a big batch of pork green chile for the week. Last year, I shared my recipe. But I switched things up this time around, leaving out the tomatillos, doubling the onions and adding a heftier than usual ratio of chopped chiles.
click to enlarge pint of guinness
A tour of the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin includes a pint with a view.
Molly Martin
Did you know that Denver has a direct flight to Dublin via Aer Lingus? In September, I took that flight and spent some time exploring Ireland's capital city, where I ate plenty of fish and chips and local oysters, tried my first spice bag and visited the Guinness Storehouse — which is definitely touristy but worth a stop for the views from the top alone.

And yes, the Guinness did taste better there.
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