Former Safta Chef Opens Sonny's Mediterranean in the Highland Neighborhood

In July 2021, Sonny's Mediterranean made our list of the most anticipated restaurants expected to open by the end of that year. "It took a little longer than that," jokes owner David Schloss, who'll finally officially open Sonny's at 11 a.m. Wednesday, June 28.

Schloss had signed the lease for the space at 2622 West 32nd Avenue in May 2021. Around that time, "stuff got super, super expensive in the supply chain," he explains. "What I budgeted for was not gonna get us there. So I had to get scrappy." From tiling to drywall to painting, he did as much of the work himself as he could, with the help of friends and family.

The space was formerly a music store, so it had to be totally gutted and outfitted with kitchen equipment. While the buildout took a long time, "it was really a huge learning experience," Schloss says. But that will come in handy when he opens more Sonny's locations in the future.

The fast-casual concept is named for the 120-pound Great Pyrenees that Schloss shares with his fiancée and co-owner, Lena Young. The two met while they were living in New Orleans, where Schloss helped a friend open a rotisserie chicken and sandwich concept in a food hall in 2015.
After Young moved to Denver, Schloss decided to join her in 2019. "He moved here with the intention of opening a restaurant, but wanted to get a lay of the land first," Young says.

So Schloss landed a gig at Safta, which is owned by Alon Shaya, who also operates Saba in New Orleans.  "While I got to know the city more, I figured that would be a great space to fine-tune my skills, because I'd never really worked fine dining until that point," Schloss says. "I had so many awesome chefs and sous chefs there that took me under their wing. Even with this whole project, they'd spend hours and hours on the phone or at the bar after work just talking me through it."

All those hours of education paid off with Sonny's Mediterranean, "a restaurant I would like to go to," Schloss says. "I don't believe that hospitality means white tablecloths and $60 entrees and eight people coming to drop off plates to you. It's more about the connection you make with each other, internally, and that feeds the customer."

Creating a positive work environment like the experience he had at Safta and in New Orleans is a focus for Schloss. "He wants to replicate something where people are really proud of where they work and feel inspired," Young says.

"I don't think everyone should be here forever," Schloss adds. "I'm not trying to hold you hostage." Instead, he's encouraging his cooks to offer creative menu suggestions and has offered them the opportunity to host pop-ups in the space on days when Sonny's is closed.
When it comes to the food, "I'm just trying to have fun with authentic flavors and authentic recipes," Schloss says.

"We're giving really good, fresh, healthy, homemade, interesting dishes in a casual environment," Young adds.

The choice to serve Mediterranean fare seems a natural fit. "I have connections with Israel," Schloss notes. "I'm Jewish and, obviously, worked at Safta for a long time. And then growing up, I spent a lot of summers in Greece," visiting with his best friend, whose father was a Greek immigrant and still had a house there. "I had my first gyros out there," he adds.

The Mediterranean is "a giant area with so many different cultures and ideas and foods," Schloss continues. "So let's have that be our umbrella, and we can work within there. But it's important that if someone from Israel comes in and tries the food, they know what it is, and it's not being bastardized. Same with the Greek people coming in."

There is also a focus on "catering to the neighborhood and people's preferences and restrictions, and making sure everyone has a healthy meal that they're happy with," Young adds. To that end, the entire menu can be made vegetarian, vegan or gluten-free by request, though the team is still on the hunt for a good gluten-free pita option.
While almost everything is made fresh in-house, pita is one thing that Schloss had to outsource. "That was a big stress," he admits. "But we just don't have the space." So he went on the hunt for a supplier, finding one thanks to a tip from a former Safta co-worker. "It's this company, Angel's Bakery, which is an Israeli bakery that started in 1927. ... In 2012, they bought an old White Castle bun factory in New Jersey and started making just pita in the U.S.," Schloss notes.

Fluffy, fresh and made with no preservatives, the pita is an ideal accompaniment to mezze options ($5.50-$7.50) like beet salad, baba ganoush topped with confit green onions, orzo salad, tzatziki and, of course, hummus ($6).

"I think that my hummus is some of the best in town," says Schloss, who made the famously smooth hummus at Safta every day. "This recipe is one I actually came up with prior to Safta. I can't give away the trade secrets, but it's much, much easier to make, and I think the product comes out just as good, if not better." At Sonny's, the super-smooth hummus is available in four variations, including one topped with a dollop of slightly spicy zhoug.
Sonny's simple menu is built around three main categories. The roster starts with a trio of pita sandwich options available with a choice of rotisserie chicken or gluten-free falafel ($12-$18.50). "The number one is a classic Israeli preparation," Schloss says, with tahini, pickles, hummus and shaved cabbage. "The number two is the classic Greek gyro preparation" and includes tzatziki, feta, tomato, pickled onion and lettuce. "Number three is the gluttonous stoner sandwich," Schloss jokes. It's loaded with harissa aioli, fries, feta, Israeli salad and lettuce.

There are also four salads ($11-$13.50), a hummus bowl ($12) and two larger plate options with a variety of components ($19.50-$26). Rotisserie chicken can be ordered as a half ($26) or whole ($42), and as a family meal with sides of hummus, sauces, mezze items and pita ($62.50).

Catering is available as well, and delivery will be added in the coming weeks.

Sonny's has a full liquor license and has brews from Zuni Street on tap, canned beers (including $3 Montuckys), natural wines and cocktails ($11) created by assistant manager Aziz Sims, with options like the Mediterranean Mule, Persian Punch and a bourbon-based drink made with coffee from Sonny's neighbor, Middle State Coffee. 
"There's been so much support from the neighborhood," Schloss says. "Obviously, it was a pretty long buildout, and we had so many people reach out on Instagram or just poke their head in. It's been awesome just feeling like the neighborhood wants it."

Schloss and Young got their first taste of being business owners during a soft opening on June 23 and 24.  "A huge weight feels lifted off," Young says. "Now it's just figuring out what life looks like."

"I had a 'coming soon' sign on that window since last April, so it was kind of a running joke" as to when it would actually open," Schloss admits. But now that his first venture as an owner is a reality, "I feel great about it. I love my staff. It's just really, really awesome."

Sonny's Mediterranean is located at 2622 West 32nd Avenue and will be open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday beginning June 28. For more information, visit sonnysmed.com.