What: Emerald Eye
Where: 1403 Larimer Street
When: Open 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily
For more info: Visit emeraldeyedenver.com What we saw: It could be easy to miss the cocktail bar Emerald Eye when visiting busy Larimer Square. Its door decal gives away no secrets, but the words “parlor lounge” can be seen in the transom window above, along with a neon sign shaped like a Monstera leaf.
Upon entering, guests immediately descend a stairwell decorated with globe pendant lights and glossy, emerald-green subway tile. On July 17, ahead of Emerald Eye’s grand opening, temperatures were near triple digits. This made the cool, dark basement-level bar all the more welcoming.
At the landing, the space opens up to the left. Coral-colored loungers and low tables wrap the perimeter of the room, and on the far end lies the brightly lit bar, creating a stark contrast to the overall low lighting. Here visitors can peruse printed menus that list signature cocktails, beer, wine and happy hour specials (cocktails are $2 off and beer and wine are $1 off from 6 to 8 p.m. nightly). DJ sets, which take place from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, are also advertised. In addition to menus, the bartenders’ potions and garnishes rest on the counter. Textured vintage glasses are filled with sprigs of mint, dried citrus wheels and magenta orchids. The spirits on the back bar are organized by liquor rather than quality — the stock here is nothing short of premium.
The turnout was impressive when we returned for another visit on July 21, one day after Emerald Eye’s grand opening. By 8:30 p.m., nearly every seat was filled in the space housing the bar and the room to the right. Though connected, a sheer sliding screen makes the adjacent area feel more intimate, as do its circular booths and cocktail tables.
Music fills the space at a fitting volume — building on the energetic atmosphere, but mellow enough to allow conversation. As the night went on, the energy increased, with upbeat reggae and Jamaican dancehall tracks becoming a more prominent part of the playlist. The vibe inspires mambo and salsa moves, which guests can show off in the more spacious room to the left of the bar, a sort of overflow area that opens when DJs come on and more guests arrive. What surprised us: The approachable menu. Emerald Eye is one of several ventures by California-based bar group Pouring With Heart, which also owns Seven Grand and took over American Bonded in February. Each establishment takes great pride in crafting high-quality cocktails, and at Emerald Eye, the refined drinks, all priced at $15, also feel familiar.
The Milk Punch, for example, is reminiscent of horchata, with toasted rice, coconut, freshly ground cinnamon and other warm spices. The beverage is made boozy with rum and Batavia Arrack, which general manager Noel Pedraza describes as a "funky Indonesian rum.”
As a vegan, Pedraza wanted to make the Milk Punch dairy-free, opting to use clarified coconut milk. Acidic lime juice curdles the coconut milk, which is then filtered, stripping much of its color but leaving behind a rich flavor and creamy consistency. This base rounds out the cocktail beautifully, negating any harsh notes from the liquor. Pouring With Heart's Denver director of operations, Erbin Garcia, was hesitant about this adaptation, but the Milk Punch has quickly become a fan favorite, selling out at Emerald Eye’s grand opening.
Another crowd-pleaser is the Mangonada, a mix of tequila, mango, Aperol, lime and soda. The cocktail marries the qualities of a mango margarita and a mimosa — more sweet than sour and absolutely refreshing.
The Thelema leans more on the tart side, but the hibiscus and lemon notes are balanced by the addition of Calvados, an apple brandy that gives the cocktail a juicy, red-apple quality evident on the nose and with each sip. Similarly, the Carajillo has an unmistakable citrus flavor that complements the bold blend of Licor 43, brandy and cold brew.
These and other signature cocktails speak to the Caribbean-inspired theme and are especially satisfying during the peak of summer. As temperatures cool later this year, Emerald Eye plans to update its menu with warmer flavors, but the bar will stay true to its focus on rum and agave spirits.