Limelight Denver Debuts First Ajax Concept Outside of Aspen

If you don't come to the mountain, the mountain will come to you. And now Aspen's Ajax Tavern — beloved for its truffle fries, wagyu cheeseburger and high-energy après-ski action — has a sister restaurant in the big city.

The original sits twenty steps from the gondola at the base of Aspen Mountain and is part of the Little Nell. Ajax Downtown sits at the corner of 16th and Wewatta Streets, in the spot once occupied by Citizen Rail, our 2018 Best of Denver pick for Best Steakhouse, back when the adjacent building was called the Hotel Born.

Aspen One bought the property last year, and the Born was reborn (sorry) as the first outpost of the brand's Limelight Hotels. (Besides Aspen, other locations include Snowmass and Ketchum, Idaho, with Mammoth, California, and Boulder coming in 2025.)

Now the restaurant has a new look and a new name, but fans of Citizen Rail (whose former longtime executive chef Christian Graves is now heading up Saverina in DTC) will still find plenty that's familiar. The coal-fired, flame-kissed concept continues — the fire and smoke now augmented by the installation of a Josper grill. Many senior staff also remain, including executive chef Jared Becker, pastry chef Gaby Navas, food and beverage director Jennifer Lordan and lead bartender Matthew Gotlin-Sheehan.
“Centered around the art of live fire cooking, Ajax Downtown is a true American restaurant drawing from influences from around the country,” Becker shares via a press release. “Most items have touched the live ember grills — from salads to desserts — and our team prides itself on responsibly sourcing Rocky Mountain raised meats, fresh seasonal vegetables from local farms and making every dish in-house.”

Entering the space, guests familiar with the Little Nell location will recognize the signature red banquettes of the Aspen original, and a pleasing palette of saturated colors gives warmth to the high-ceilinged space. Nina Gotlieb, founder of Otherworld Creative, did a stint with West Elm as director of design, and you can see evidence of that sleek coziness in the comfortable but sophisticated decor she's created for the space.
The housemade sourdough bread made with grain from Id Est Hospitality's Dry Storage in Boulder is enough to convert anyone to carbs. Coal-roasted beets enhanced with Humboldt Fog goat cheese and pine nut gremolata are a worthy rendition of the classic salad, and the corn tart with charred kernels offers a flame-kissed taste of summer. Portions are anything but skimpy, and the roasted duck breast with roasted peach curry and fresh peaches could easily serve two.

Ajax Downtown's cocktail program also doesn't spare the smoke, says lead bartender Matt Gotlin-Sheehan. "Our house cocktail program draws direct inspiration from the culinary team by combining the crackling of fire, rich aromas and burning embers with refreshing and earthy finishes from fresh botanicals and local ingredients, and seasonal produce."

Specialty ingredients include a lemon cordial made from charring spent lemon husks and bourbon washed with dry-aged ribeye fat. A good selection of Colorado brews are on draft, and you'll find excellent wines by the glass and the bottle.

Happy Hour offers a 50/50 (brisket and short rib) burger with rosemary (not truffle) fries and other early-evening nibbles.

Whether to old friends or new fans, the opening of Ajax Downtown is a welcome reboot for those living in and visiting the neighborhood around Union Station.

Ajax Downton is located at 1899 16th Street, adjacent to the Limelight Hotel. The restaurant is open weekdays for breakfast from 7 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. and lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner is available from 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Weekend brunch is available from 8 to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.  For more information, visit ajaxrestaurant.com.