Where: 3333 East Colfax Avenue
When: Open 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday beginning January 18
For more info: Visit molotovdenver.com
The Pysanky cocktail is made with house-infused honey black currant horika, a Ukrainian alcoholic beverage.
Molly Martin
Porytko and former business partner Dan Laisy became known for dishing up daring cuisine at Rebel Restaurant, which shuttered in 2018, leaving lovers of its pierogi and crackly-skinned whole pig's head in mourning.
The following year, the chef launched Misfit Snack Bar inside Middleman, where an ever-rotating menu of creative fare is anchored by one of the best burgers in town. But Porytko had long wanted to open an Eastern European concept rooted in Ukrainian fare, a nod to his heritage. While he originally envisioned a large endeavor that would double as a market, the small space just a block away from Misfit that became available when To the Wind closed last May provided the perfect opportunity for Porytko to bring a scaled-down version of that concept to life.
"I want it to be very familial. I want it to feel like when you go to your grandmother's house and they feed you too much and you're drunk, but you can't really tell because you're giddy and happy," he told Westword in October.
If night one was any indication, Porytko has made that goal a reality. Partner Jareb Parker, who also owns Middleman, has transformed the space into an appropriately kitschy escape, where a collection of cuckoo clocks hangs above the eight-seat chef's counter that surrounds the small kitchen. One wall of the cozy dining room is plastered in retro propaganda, while another features a floral installation with sunflowers and wheat that evokes a vinok, a traditional Ukrainian headdress.
Ahead of the restaurant's official January 18 launch, the soft-opening menu offered a pair of cocktails ($13) from beverage manager Jason Randall, who formerly worked at Rebel: the light and well-balanced Pysanky made with horika, a Ukrainian alcoholic beverage, infused with honey and black current; and the Version of Reality, a play on an Old Fashioned made with smoked coconut bitters and sweetened with ginger/cayenne demerara syrup.
The signature Molotov was not available, but is described on the menu as "an incendiary concoction with seasonal spike horika with a flaming sidecar. Meant to be consumed in one sip."
Infused vodkas will also be a staple, along with beer and a selection of wine that includes a house white made in Slovenia, just two miles from the Italian border, and a standout dry Riesling from Austria.
The selections on the concise menu are all meant to be shared. The Zakusky, or "bites" section, includes a rutabaga latke with gravlax and fried capers ($15) and pelmini ($16), small dumplings made with spelt and filled with a decadent smoked duck pate and topped with tarragon bernaise and candied shallots. Unlike the often-surprising food at Rebel and Misfit, Porytko is sticking closer to traditional flavors and presentations here, while adding a more delicate balance of playful elements.
Entrees lean hearty, like the large roasted pork shank ($38) which is fried and coated in lavender honey for a crisp exterior surrounding the tender meat below. Another main, the coulibic ($36), makes a big impression when it's brought to the table — a large puff pastry rests atop a bowl, hiding the layered dish underneath. Break through to find wild mushroom rice and buckwheat, Swiss chard, king salmon and a perfectly cooked soft boiled egg beneath.
For dessert, the pampushky ($10), Ukrainian doughnuts with lemon curd, are nice to share, but the light and airy pistachio Neapolitan ($12) is so good, it's worth ordering two for the table.
What surprised us: The borscht ($16), which surprised Porytko, too. He challenged himself to make a borscht without beets, opting to use sour cherry instead. And while the description and bright red appearance leads you to expect something tart and fruity, the resulting broth is incredibly savory and unctuous. A cross-hatched slice of trumpet mushroom lends an almost-fatty texture, but the best part is the dumpling filled with tender braised duck.
For now, the set menu will be served in both the dining room and at the counter; eventually, the guests at the seats in front of the kitchen will get a totally different experience — a tasting menu that will change frequently.
But even on its very first day, Molotov delivered in a big way, offering a far more refined take on Porytko's particular brand of chaos that still feels fun and fresh while deftly honoring a culture and cuisine that has deep roots.
