One of Denver's Few Szechuan Restaurants Nearly Closed Today, but Now It Has a Second Chance

Szechuan-style fried green beans and spicy boiled fish from Noodles Express. Molly Martin

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A few months ago, I received a restaurant recommendation from former Westword food critic Laura Shunk: Noodles Express, at 703 South Colorado Boulevard. The little spot was serving up some stellar Szechuan food, said Shunk, who'd spent a year living in China, researching its food and sustainable agriculture.

Better late than never, I thought earlier this month, as I finally pulled into the end of the Belcaro King Soopers parking lot, where Noodles Express is located. But it nearly was too late.

Shortly after my story about this nondescript space serving amazing food was published, I got a message on Instagram with a tip from a food-focused Denver Facebook group: Noodles Express was planning to close on February 24. After confirming that tip, I did the only thing I could think of doing: encouraged everyone to go eat there while they could.

click to enlarge

Dan dan noodles are a top seller at Noodles Express.

Molly Martin

The news spread on social media, and on February 19, I heard from a friend who'd gone in and found an hour-long wait for to-go orders — the restaurant was bustling. The next day, former Westword food and drink editor Mark Antonation told me he'd stopped by only to be told that the restaurant had to close early because it was so busy, it ran out of food.

Finally, on February 23, the owner gave me the good news: Noodles Express no longer plans to close today. "Nothing is certain yet," he cautioned, but added that the restaurant is currently working with King Soopers to renegotiate its lease so that it can remain open.

All of its fans — both old and new — hope it will. After all, there are few options for authentic Szechuan cooking in Denver; other go-to spots include Blue Ocean Asian Cuisine (aka Little Chengdu) in the Tech Center and Szechuan Tasty House on East Evans Avenue.

Still, Noodles Express offers something not available anywhere else in the area, and is the kind of restaurant that makes Denver's food scene richer. While lease negotiations are in progress, the best way to show your support is to patronize the place, showing that you recognize it's a real asset in this town.

Noodles Express is located at 703 South Colorado Boulevard and is open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4 to 8:30 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. For more information, visit noodlesexpressdenver.com.