Peruvian Food Spices Up the Front Range

Metro Denver has no shortage of restaurants serving foods from south of the border — albeit most highlight the many specialties of Mexico. But the offerings become more scarce as you move farther into South America.

Peru has a rich culinary heritage that’s well worth exploring, and Peruvian food has been gaining international attention: Central restaurant in Lima was voted the world's best in 2023. The first South American restaurant to nab the top spot, Central joined three other Lima restaurants in the top fifty, making the nation’s capital the most-awarded city in the world.

Peruvian-born chef Carolina Zubiate (winner of 2023’s Hispanic Top Chef competition) works at Yuan Wonton and caters private dinners and events, but she's also been highlighting fare from Peru via Chifa Night, her monthly pop-up series. (The next one is on August 30.)

Located on the continent’s southern Pacific coast, Peru has a staggering amount of biodiversity. The country’s ecosystems range from Pacific waters to Andean peaks, and it is one of the planet’s most ecologically diverse regions. This bounty is reflected in the country’s foodstuffs, from seafood to more than 4,000 varieties of potatoes.

Peru was the heart of the Incan empire, and the people cultivated potatoes, corn, beans, quinoa, squash and peppers, to name just a few. Spanish colonizers introduced garlic, onions, citrus, rice and wheat — and African slaves. Immigrants from China and Japan in the late nineteenth century brought soy sauce, rice vinegar and ginger, and Peruvian food is now a true fusion of residents old and new. If you can’t make it to Machu Picchu, here are a few places to experience Peru’s vibrant flavors in the metro area.
Rosario’s
625 Ken Pratt Boulevard, Longmont
303-772-1026
This family-owned place (the only Peruvian restaurant in Boulder County) is worth the drive. Rosario Cardenas was a teacher and principal in Peru, but after immigrating to Colorado, she put her love of cooking to work, opening this strip-mall spot more than ten years ago. The inviting interior is colorful and spotlessly clean, decorated with photos of the Andes. An etagere offers handicrafts for sale, including woven bags and small stuffed llamas.

The flavorful food is served promptly. The lightly spiced beef empanadas have a crisp, glossy crust and are served with a tangle of pickled onions, and the ceviche (Peru’s national dish) sings with freshness. Those unfamiliar with Peruvian food — or who just like a little bit of everything — should opt for one of the twelve “tours,” sampler plates that let you enjoy smaller servings. Mine (number six) featured steaming aji de gallina, a comforting mixture of shredded chicken in a creamy pepper sauce; papa rellena, a crispy potato stuffed with spiced beef accompanied by a tangy salsa; and tallarin saltado, a savory stir-fry of well-seasoned steak, onions and noodles in soy sauce. A full bar offers beer and cocktails, including a worthy Pisco sour. Rosario’s opens for lunch and dinner at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
The Red Llama
8331 Willow Street B, Lone Tree
720-616-7902
Lone Tree’s Red Llama started as a catering business in 2019 before opening its location near Park Meadows Mall at the end of 2023. Co-owner Jhordano Vásquez was a chef in his native city of Lima. His wife and co-owner, Marisol Armas, grew up working at Benny’s, the now-closed Capitol Hill staple owned by her father for more than three decades. Armas met Vásquez on a family visit to Peru, and the couple are now busy with five children and their new venture.

You have to order using a QR code, but the servers are friendly and happy to refill the complimentary corn nuts on your table. Try the tallarin a la huancaína con lomo, a splendid combination of seasoned steak and cheesy noodles. Fish isn’t the only thing that can be ceviched: Try the fried pork belly tossed with lime juice, cilantro and peppers. Or anticuchos de corazón, another national specialty — grilled skewers of tender chunks of beef heart marinated in spices. Portions are hearty, but save room for dessert, especially the classic cheesecake topped with maracuya (passionfruit). Red Llama has a full bar and opens at 11 a.m. for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.

Pollo Lima
9614 East Arapahoe Road, Greenwood Village
303-484-8712
This casual quick-service place in the Shops at Greenwood Village has a worthy selection of Peruvian specialties (including a legit seafood chaufa). But what you really want is the juicy marinated rotisserie chicken, and that can sell out quickly. (Pro tip: Ask for extra sauces.) Open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Pisco Sour
14050 East Evans Avenue, Aurora
303-671-4437
It’s never a good sign when you walk into a large and completely empty restaurant at the height of what should be the Sunday brunch rush. Overlooking the lack of air-conditioning and very loud music, we started with an appetizer of fried calamari and yuca, which — when it eventually arrived — was fine, I guess. Pisco Sour charges a mandatory 20 percent gratuity which (at least on our visit) didn’t cover refilling water glasses or checking on the food. Prices were high: One appetizer, one Inca Kola and two glasses of water came to $33.60 (including mandatory tip). Fortunately, House of Bread, winner of 2024’s Best Sunday-Only Special, was nearby and delicious.

And More in Store
More Peruvian grilled chicken is on the horizon at Aji Denver: Chef/owner Neil Paz-Cruzat is currently applying for permits and looking for locations to serve up Peru’s signature poultry.