Go Greek at Pete's Central One

"Opa!" You'll hear that a lot when dining at Pete's Central One, as flaming skillets of saganaki cheese are delivered to tables. This restaurant near Washington Park is one of the spots that was owned by the late Pete Contos, a local hospitality icon, who purchased it in 1998.

Contos was born in Greece and came to Denver in 1955. Seven years later, he brought the already well-known Satire Lounge on Colfax, adding the "Pete's" to its moniker. In the decades that followed, his empire expanded.

After he passed away in 2019, his family took the reins, continuing his legacy — though there have been many challenges and some changes, including the closure of Pete's Gyros Place in Congress Park and Pete's Greek Town on Colfax.
Now, four establishments remain. Two are diners — Pete's University Park and Pete's Kitchen, which is next door to the still-cool Satire Lounge — and Pete's Central One, at 300 South Pearl Street. "This one was always the most low-key of the restaurants, and all the food is so good and so authentic," says Alex Barakos, the grandson of Pete Contos who now oversees Pete's Kitchen and the Satire. Pete's Central One is managed by Barakos's aunt, Nikki Phillips.

"I just think [Pete's Central One] is so much different than any of our other places," Barakos adds. While the Satire is a well-known source of late-night revelry and the diners have expansive menus that include American classics and Mexican food as well as some Greek dishes, Pete's Central One is firmly rooted in Greek fare, served in an intimate dining room that's decked out with Mediterranean coastal scenes.
Nearly everything is made by Amalia Tatarides, a Greek woman who runs the kitchen, where she prepares hand-rolled dolmades, pastitsio (think Greek lasagna made with ground beef, large macaroni noodles, tomato sauce and creamy Parmesan Béchamel) and pastries like flaky galaktobouriko and custard-filled bougatsa. Dean Contos, Barakos's uncle, also works in the kitchen most nights.

Greek wines and shots of ouzo flow from the small bar, as regulars stop in for cups of avgolemono, a creamy lemon chicken and rice soup thickened with eggs; giant Greek salads; and platters of souvlaki. Anyone who frequented the Old Spaghetti Factory downtown will recognize the appeal of the Greek pasta dusted with mizithra cheese and garlic butter.
Even items that are common at the other Pete's locations are done a bit differently here, like the tzatziki, which is thicker, with a more punchy garlic flavor. A round of that and other dips for the table is an ideal way to start a meal here, and everything is big enough to share. There are some more uncommon options, too, like the marides (fried smelt) and loukanika (grilled Greek sausage made with orange rind).

Much of the food at Pete's Central One holds up nicely to go, and a steady flow of regulars pops in to pick up orders. But if you're looking for a relaxed place to enjoy big servings of comfort food, dining in is the way to go. This is one of those spots that feels like home, even if you've never visited before. It's well-worn but welcoming, and worth a stop for a taste of classic Denver that hasn't changed much in the past 25 years...and should stick around for many more to come.

Pete's Central One is located at 300 South Pearl Street and is open from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch Tuesday through Saturday and 5 to 8 p.m. for dinner Tuesday through Sunday. For more information, petesrestaurants.com.