Find Tasty and Affordable Options at Sakura Square's Two Eateries

As new buildings continue to pop up around LoDo, one neighborhood mainstay stands out among the offices and luxury apartments: Sakura Square, at 1950 Larimer Street, just a few blocks from Coors Field.

This four-block area is the last remaining part of Denver's long-gone Japantown. In the early 1900s, the city's Japanese American population grew rapidly, but numbers dwindled as internment camps began to open during World War II. Ralph Carr, who was the governor of Colorado from 1939 until 1943, was an outspoken opponent of internment camps. After the war ended in 1945, he encouraged Japanese-Americans being released from the camps to come to Colorado.

In 1947, the Tri-State Denver Buddhist Temple was built in its current location, becoming an anchor in the community. Japantown flourished until the late ’60s, when the Denver Urban Renewal Authority (DURA) gave word that it was going to raze a portion of downtown in favor of new infrastructure — at which point the city gave the rest of the Japanese community an ultimatum: Either move to Sakura Square or lose your home downtown. So they did just that.

The Buddhist Temple, with help from Reverend Yoshiaka Tamai and immigration lawyer Minoru Yasui, bought the land on 19th Street between Larimer and Lawrence streets from DURA for $188,000 and began construction on Tamai Tower and its connecting shopping complex in 1968. It was finished and dedicated in 1973.

The building has Japanese architecture at its core, with multiple rock gardens, open meeting rooms and above-street-level retail spaces. Until 2014, Tamai Tower was designated strictly for low-income Japanese tenants. The property is also home to statues of Governor Carr, Reverend Tamai and Minoru Yasui in honor of their fight to make Colorado a home for Japanese immigrants.

I moved into Tamai Tower when it first started renting to the public, about a decade ago. Recently, I spent an afternoon there reminiscing — and eating at the square's two restaurants.
First up was Sakura House. This Japanese eatery has been part of Sakura Square since 2012 and is located in the old Yoko's Express space on the first floor of the square's retail area, directly behind the rock garden. It might take you a
lap to find it, as it's tucked away and has very little signage.

The space itself is unassuming and dimly lit. When I visited, the sole employee, Komiko, was extremely friendly and patient. It is open for lunch only, from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and most of the menu is geared toward dishing out full meals at affordable prices. There are bento boxes for less than $20, ramen and rice bowls for under $15, and meals that come with a choice of protein, rice, miso soup and a salad for $13.95-$16.95.

I opted for the spicy ramen with chasu as well as the chicken teriyaki meal. The ramen broth had a nice punch of heat — but not enough to make your eyes water — and the chasu (Japanese-style pork belly) was packed full of flavor. At $13.95, the chicken teriyaki was a fantastic option for lunch. Most of the time, I can't even get a burger downtown for under $15, so a full meal with nothing fried for that price was a welcome change.
Next, I headed to JJ Bistro, a Chinese restaurant that was originally located in Five Points but moved into a space on the second floor of Tamai Tower in 2005. It is open from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, noon to 8:30 p.m. Saturday and 4 to 8:30 p.m. Sunday.

Along with Great Wall on East Colfax and Peter's in Congress Park, this is one of my go-to's for Chinese takeout, and its menu is filled with the usual Chinese American staples like sweet and sour pork, General Tso's chicken and Mongolian beef, all of which are available in a lunch-size portion until 3 p.m. for just $10.95.

Owners Hui Chen and Jiarong Wang were both born in China, and when I was a broke 21-year-old waiter at the Cheesecake Factory and living at Sakura Square, they often took care of me. Wang would deliver steamed dumplings — my go-to order — to my apartment on the 17th floor, a favor he said "was only for me."

One Christmas, while my roommates were away, I found myself alone, so I headed down to JJ. Chen was there, of course, as most Chinese American restaurants stay open on the holidays. I sat at the bar, and she gave me a small bottle of sake on the house. For two or three hours, we drank and swapped stories about life. I have gone into the restaurant a handful of times in the years since I moved, and every time, Chen remembers me — no matter how long my hair gets. 

On this visit, I ordered the Szechuan chicken, a balanced, filling meal at an unbeatable price point. This spot also offers smoothies and boba which are an ideal refreshment choice after a day game at Coors Field.
The complex is also home to a maze-like retail section. You'll find various doctor's offices as well as the Asian supermarket Pacific Mercantile Company, where you can load up not only on food items, but also ramen serving ware, lucky cats, bento boxes, sake carafes and more. The family-owned business has been operating for nearly eighty years and moved to its current location in 1973.

Whether you're hungry or you're a history buff like myself (or both), Sakura Square is a must-visit in the Mile High.