This Colorado Town Has Some Golden Opportunities for Food and Drink

Golden, located less than twenty miles west of downtown Denver, is renowned as the home of Coors, the world's largest single-site brewery. But while its presence looms large in Golden, the small town has a lot more to offer, especially for those with an appetite.

In my early twenties, when my bank account was almost always near empty, a jaunt to Golden was a go-to date excursion. Back then, you could hit up the free Coors brewery tour without a wait, especially if you opted to skip the bus tour and walk straight to the entrance instead.

But I'd skip the tour, too, heading directly to the tasting room for my three complimentary cold beers before strolling over to the Buffalo Rose, which used to be a divey spot that had a cheap buffalo burger-and-beer special and a claw machine filled with live lobsters. (I never did manage to nab one, but it was fun trying.)

Since then, brewery tours have changed. You can't just head to the front door anymore, since you now need a reservation. A full tour will cost you $20, while the tasting room-only experience is $10 (but you still need to ride the bus in order to get those three beers).

The Buffalo Rose has changed, too. It got a major overhaul that uncovered a lot of history before it reopened in 2019. Today it's sleeker, with a large outdoor patio where there's often live music that can be heard as you stroll through town. But the lobster claw machine is now just a memory.
In recent years, I've continued to make regular trips to Golden, and I tend to stick to a handful of favorites when I'm eating and drinking there. The old-school, no-frills Bob's Atomic makes one of the best burgers around. I love imbibing at Miners Saloon, which you'll find in an alley that's also home to Golden Moon Distillery's tasting room/speakeasy. And chef Jesus Silva's sushi is a prime attraction at the Golden Mill, a food hall whose rooftop boasts a great view of the Coors complex.

On a recent weekend staycation in the town, though, I decided to kick my habits and go to places I'd never been before. The result was a romp around the streets of Golden, which are rich in both history and delicious dining options.

Stop one was my home for the weekend, Table Mountain Inn, which is located right on Washington Avenue, in the heart of downtown. It originally opened in 1925 as the Hotel Berrimoor and, after a change in ownership, became the Cody Hotel in the 1930s, named for "Buffalo Bill" Cody, who is buried above the town on Lookout Mountain (encased in concrete, actually, in order to prevent theft by anyone trying to move him to Wyoming — but that's another story).
Several changes in ownership later, former Golden mayor Lu Holland revived the place in 1948 before retiring in the 1980s. In 1991, it was saved once again, this time by Old Chicago founder Frank Day, who's had a hand in dozens of eateries, bars and hotels over the years.

It still operates under Day's Concepts Restaurants group, and true to his restaurant roots, its on-site eatery is worth a stop whether you're staying at the hotel or not. Table Mountain Grill & Cantina is located in the taxidermy-filled lobby (be sure to say hello to Goldie, the bear near the front desk) and offers one of the better happy hour menus I've seen in a while — including a $5 house margarita, which is basically unheard of in Denver these days. Also not to be missed is the asadero cheese appetizer, which is lit aflame tableside, saganaki style, and comes with chips, roasted chiles and pico de gallo.

After that warm-up act, I headed to Golden Liquors, which is located directly across from Coors and has a license that dates back to 1902. In March, owners Nate and Briana Austin opted to give the shop an overhaul inspired by their travels in Oaxaca. Now it's Destilados de Agave at Golden Liquors, and its shelves are stocked with mezcal, sotol, raicilla and other agave-based spirits (plus cans of Coors, of course).
There's also a tasting room, which is where I was sipping samples of an Ecuadorian agave spirit, Chawar, when I got a food recommendation: Go to Abejas.

While I'd heard nothing but good things about this upscale spot that opened in 2015 just one block from the Table Mountain Inn, I'd never had the chance to eat there. Although co-owner Brandon Bortles now spends much of his time at his other nearby eatery, Nosu Ramen, his tight-knit team creates an instant sense of community once you step inside Abejas.

I started my meal with a light, summery tequila libation with strawberries and balsamic, along with hamachi crudo smartly served over thin slices of charred pineapple. An heirloom tomato salad was studded with rich Valbreso feta, a French take on the Greek staple made with sheep's milk left over from the production of Roquefort.

In another dish, seared scallops and crisp asparagus were served with a curry-like coconut brodo. The star of the night, though, was the tender duck breast, with more asparagus plus marble potatoes and a swipe of slightly sweet and pleasantly tangy rhubarb coulis. If you're in the mood to splurge a little in Golden, Abejas is the place to do it.
Strolling along Washington after dinner, we passed a rowdy crowd gathered at the entrance of the Ace-Hi Tavern, a classic dive. Right next door, in a subterranean space, I found refuge — and Skee-Ball — at the Underground, a perfect low-key stop for a nightcap.

The next day, the ease of grabbing a Bloody Maria at the Table Mountain Grill & Cantina was too tempting to pass up. While the brunch menu is filled with both sweet and savory Southwest-inspired options — fried chicken and biscuits smothered in green chile, blue corn pancakes with plantains — the most satisfying (and surprising) bite was the cauliflower taco, one of six street taco options available. The unconventional combo included fried cheese curds, charred cauliflower, pickled celery, blue cheese and a mango habanero hot sauce. It sounds weird but tastes great, especially if you love Buffalo wings.

After filling up on food, I made the short trip to New Terrain for an afternoon beer and a bit of bluegrass — the brewery often hosts live music and other events. The drive there provides a glimpse of the back side of the massive Coors operation, and also takes you right past the Colorado Railroad Museum, if you're looking for an off-the-beaten-path activity.
After going all out at Abejas the night before, I was craving some low-key comfort food for dinner, which I found at Mannie & Bo's, a Chicago-style pizzeria in a strip mall on South Golden Road. With red-checkered tablecloths, big red plastic cups for water and walls covered with sports memorabilia, this place is a well-worn local favorite that serves up both deep-dish and the thin-crust, square-cut tavern-style pies that are popular in metro Denver these days.

I settled in at the small bar in the dining room and quickly made a few new friends as I sipped an $8 dirty martini, one of many stellar happy hour options. I went with the signature sausage pie, covered with Mannie & Bo's housemade Italian sausage and extra cheese (be sure to order it well done for a crispier crust).

Fully satisfied, I headed back to the hotel and made note of the many recommendations I'd gotten for my next adventure in Golden: momo dumplings at Sherpa House, Mexican food and mountain views at El Dorado, po'boys at Trailhead Taphouse and wine slushies at Barrels & Bottles, to name a few.

While I'll never give up my Bob's Atomic habit — and I couldn't resist a stop at Bonfire Burritos, our 2022 Best of Denver pick for Best Breakfast Burrito to Go, on the way out of town — I'll soon be back to explore many more Golden opportunities.