Wok Spicy Brings Sichuan Specialties to the Former Twin Dragon in Englewood

Just over a year ago, Englewood lost a beloved community staple when Twin Dragon owner Shiou Jefferson decided she was ready for retirement after 47 years in business.

At the time, she told Westword that another restaurant would be moving in, though she wasn't sure what kind of food it would serve.

Now we know: Wok Spicy, a new concept from the owners of Taki Sushi, recently debuted in the space. While you will find many typical American Chinese options on its menu, what we love is the wide range of Sichuan specialties.

Wok Spicy isn't too far from another Sichuan favorite, Szechuan Tasty House at 1000 West Evans Avenue, but the hours at that establishment can be unpredictable, so it's nice to have another spot where you can go when the craving for this cuisine hits.

Gone is the ornate decor of Twin Dragon. Jefferson cleared the place out before shutting down, donating many of the items to Goodwill and to customers who wanted to keep a piece of the place for their own.
The new dining room is bright and simply decorated, with a few Colorado-esque wildlife photos hanging on the walls and a surprisingly Taylor Swift- and Harry Styles-heavy playlist. While the atmosphere was a little confusing, the service was friendly and fast. Most important, we found a wide variety of tempting dishes that already has us craving round two.

We started with the chile wontons, priced at $7.95 for an order of eight. Though they were on the small size, the bright-red oil they were bathed in was a nice preface to some spicier dishes to come.
The bao buns ($9.95-$10.95 for two), another starter, were much larger than expected. We opted for the cumin lamb version, which included grilled peppers and cucumber for a fresh crunch.

The main dishes were the real stars, though, starting with one of the dry wok options ($15.95-$19.95). While you can choose from selections such as pork belly, chicken wings, beef, fish and pork intestine, we opted for the lotus root, which retained a satisfying crunch. The dish included peppers and cabbage, all doused in a red chile flake-heavy sauce.
Double-cooked pork with cabbage ($15.95) also brought a fair amount of heat and was studded with fermented black beans, which added a complex richness to the dish.

Another hit was the mapo tofu ($13.95). My previous favorite local version of this dish is at Meet & Eat Bistro at 10021 East Hampden Avenue. There, the tender pieces of soft tofu and minced pork are topped with a heavy dose of Sichuan peppercorns, cracked so fine they're almost powdered. 
That signature mouth-numbing spice in Wok Spicy's version of mapo tofu was pungent, too, but better integrated into the sauce that also included fermented black beans, and the tofu was silky and nearly melted in your mouth. The result was a dish that was savory and aromatic, with plenty of punch.

In addition to a wide range of food options, Wok Spicy serves wine, beer, sake and a lineup of cocktails that includes a Lychitini, Perfect Mai Tai and a Peach Cosmo.

As with most Sichuan spots, the right move here is to go with a group that likes to share and be prepared to leave very full — or with a haul of leftovers.

While we miss the kitsch of Twin Dragon and the kindness of owner Shiou Jefferson, this new spot is bringing the heat in all the right ways. Here's hoping that, like its predecessor, it has a long run.