Last year, a former Safta chef, David Schloss, opened Sonny's Mediterranean at 2622 West 32nd Avenue. "I think that my hummus is some of the best in town," he told Westword at the time. "This recipe is one I actually came up with prior to Safta. I can't give away the trade secrets, but it's much, much easier to make, and I think the product comes out just as good, if not better."
Is it better? I decided to find out in a very un-scientific taste test with a group of enthusiastic eaters — friends who'd gathered for game night.
Visually, it's easy to tell the difference between the hummus from Sonny's (left) and Safta.
Molly Martin
The method:
On the way to game night, I stopped at Sonny's and Safta and picked up one order of the basic tahini hummus from each, along with some pitas (more on that later — this test was strictly focused on hummus). I labeled the bottom of two identical bowls and filled them with hummus, mixing it a bit to minimize the visual differences. Each tester tried bites of naked hummus and also on pita from Sonny's, because it has a more neutral flavor.The contenders:
Sonny's MediterraneanCost: $6
Notes: The price tag here doesn't include pita — those are sold separately at $2.50 each. The serving size was slightly larger than that of Safta's.
Safta
Cost: $16
Notes: This order included two of Safta's wood-fired pitas, which are priced at $2 each if you want extra to-go.
The results:
"I know which is from Safta," one person said immediately after walking over to the taste-test station I'd set up. "So do I," added another. So much for a blind test, but it's true. If you've had Safta's hummus, you know it comes topped with an ample amount of olive oil, and my stirring hadn't disguised that.There were definite flavor differences, as well. While everyone agreed that Safta's was creamier ("a lot creamier," one person said), several preferred the tangy, citrus-forward notes of the Sonny's version, which we suspect come from sumac.
Texture-wise, the group preferred Safta's hummus, but overall, "it's so close," one tester noted as others nodded in agreement. "Either is superb," another added. "I wouldn't go to one place over the other just for the hummus."
"If you weren't trying them literally side by side, I don't think you'd notice a difference in quality," one person added.
The overall pick based purely on taste was Safta, with just one of five opting for Sonny's as the winner. But then I shared how much each cost.
With that factored in, Sonny's is by far the better value. The pitas are very different, too. Sonny's outsources its pitas, which are thick with a pleasantly chewy texture and more neutral flavor — and that makes sense, since it primarily uses them for the huge pita sandwiches that nabbed a 2024 Best of Denver award.
Safta's pita has a tang from the use of a sourdough starter and smokiness from being cooked in a wood-fired oven. Both options are delicious but very different.
Bonus tip: Sonny's sells several other dips for $6, making it easy and affordable to pick up a quick Mediterranean spread for a party or picnic. I'm especially partial to the smoky baba ganoush.
What should we taste test next? Send ideas to [email protected].
